Earlier this month, I traveled uptown to check out Notorious & Notable: 20th Century Women of Style at the Museum of the City of New York. It being a weekday afternoon, I was surprised that I had to shove my way through gaggles of chit-chatting old biddies clogging up the exhibit's narrow aisle and maneuver around babies crawling around the carpeted floor as their Uggs-wearing, tourist mothers were occupied with their Blackberries. The annoyance level caused by this bunch felt like being stranded at an airport during a blizzard on a holiday weekend.
The exhibit certainly features designer ensembles and jewels worn by many "notable" women, but call me dumb-dumb, I couldn't really figure out whom the "notorious" part of the title refers to. Arranged by color, the show offers outfits worn by "80 prominent New York women who used their style, talent, or wealth to capture the attention of society and the media" (from the musuem's website). The clothing is displayed on mannequins alongside a portrait of its wearer, a short bio, and a pull quote describing the subject and her style. Featuring duds worn by the wives of powerful businessmen - Mrs Andrew Carnegie; socialites - Sunny von Bulow and Brooke Astor (the lace dress she wore to Truman Capote's Black and White ball in 1966); performers - Lena Horne, Marian Anderson, and Gypsy Rose Lee (the burlesque diva's ensemble features a row of snap buttons up the back for quick removal); politician Bella Abzug; actress Lauren Bacall; artist Louise Nevelson; Pop art collector Ethel Scull; writer Anita Loos; and genuine fashion/style icons Iris Apfel and Tina Chow. Displayed in glass cases are jewelry pieces once owned by Edith Bouvier Beale, Jackie Kennedy Onassis, Barbara Walters, Carolina Herrera, Diana Vreeland, and more.
While the collection of garments is impressive and the array of subjects diverse, as ironic as this sounds regarding a fashion exhibit, Notorious and Notable felt superficial and arbitrary, directionless. If you're simply in the mood to check out some fab frocks worn by some fab New York women, and don't expect to learn about fashion or New York history, then this show should suit you fine - just be prepared in case another annoying-bus happens to visit on the same day that you do. Learn more at the museum's website mcny.org and read reviews at artdaily.org and nytimes.com. Through January 2, 2011.
Left to right: Mrs Andrew Carnegie, Jeanne Dimelow evening dress, 1915; Tina Chow, Chanel (Karl Lagerfeld) "Homage to Coco Chanel" evening dress,1983; Mrs Henry Clews, Paul Poiret walking ensemble, 1919-20
Left to right: Jessye Norman, Gianfranco Ferre for House of Christian Dior performance gown, 1996; Lauren Bacall, "Tissue-of-Diamonds" Dress, 1963
Left to right: Marian Anderson, Elsa Schiaparelli evening/concert gown,1941; Rosamond Bernier, Zandra Rhodes evening dress, 1977-8
Mona Williams von Bismark-Schonhausen de Martini, Balenciaga evening ensemble, 1968
Gypsy Rose Lee, Strip Costume, 1940s
Left to right: Lena Horne, Giorgio di Sant'Angelo evening dress,1981; Ethel Scull, Stephen Burrows evening dress,1970; Laura Johnson, Emilio Pucci evening costume, mid-1960s
Anita Loos, Balenciaga evening dress, 1961
Left to right: Iris Apfel, Pertegaz/Madrid shawl, Gianfranco Ferre skirt, 1970s-80s; Annette de la Renta, Yves Saint Laurent evening dress, 1985
Sunny von Bulow, Christian Dior mini-dress, 1968
Bette Midler, Mermaid Costume, 1993
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