Japan Fashion Now | The Museum at FIT

The Museum at FIT has fortunately extended Japan Fashion Now, the first exhibition to examine the eclectic and fascinating world of contemporary Japanese fashion.  Focusing on highend and street fashions the show kicks off with an "introductory gallery" showcasing an impressive collection of looks culled from the Japanese "fashion revolution" of the 1980s, featuring avant-garde and timeless designs by the greats—Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, and Comme des Garcons' Rei Kawakubo.  According to the show's notes, "the 1980s marked an important turning point in fashion history.  For the first time, a non-western culture had significantly affected the global fashion system, and had done so by projecting an image of hyper-modernism." This "hyper-modernism" included "deconstruction" and "innovative textile technologies" and introduced the notion of beauty in imperfection.  Elegant and edgy, these examples of Miyake, Yamamoto, and Kawakubo's early work are proof that not all fashion in the 80's was embarrassing and regrettable.

In the main gallery are about 90 ensembles representing highend designers, menswear, subculture and street styles, and Cosplay.  The highend section is titled "Omotesando," after the Tokyo neighborhood where the Comme des Garcons flagship store and several designer boutiques call home.  Highlights from this section include recent work by Kawakubo for Comme des Garcons, her talented proteges Junya Watanabe and Tao Kurihara, and Undercover's Jun Takahashi.  Also on display is a Louis Vuitton "Speedy 30" monogram bag from 2003 featuring Japanese artist Takashi Murakami's famous, bright, bold graphics.  The bags from this collaboration were well-loved and ubiquitous and spawned countless knock offs.  Also on display, looking like an art object in a glass case, is a red embossed heel-less, platform boot by Noritaka Tatehana whose intimidating shoes are favored by the likes of Lady Gaga.

The menswear section boasts a diverse array of looks ranging from preppy to punk-inspired, from Savile Row suiting to grunge-y plaids and flannel.  Far more interesting and daring than basic polo shirts and stripey button-ups, yet thankfully not cringe-inducing like Ed Hardy, many of these ensembles are for men with the balls to make a sartorial statement.  Highlights from menswear include selections from Number (N)ine, N. Hollywood, and Phenomenon—especially the label's central look consisting of metallic, armor-like boots paired with an army green flight jacket with sleeves resembling a stegosaurus' spikey spine.

Now for the kooky and crazy—across the gallery are samples of the outlandish and attention-grabbing outfits worn on the streets of the young and hip Harajuku and Shibuya districts.  Starting off with the staid school uniforms (sailor-style in the summer and wool jackets with plaid skirts in the winter) the section then veers off to the opposite end of the spectrum with over-the-top looks that easily identify which subculture the wearers are associated.  Looks from the 1990s include elaborately embroidered Kamikaze suits worn by motorcycle gangs and the super girly, kawaii cutesy, Little-Bo-Peep-like stylings worn by Lolitas (who incorporate loads of lace, satin, pettiskirts, parasols, and aprons) and Gothic Lolitas (who are much like the other Lolitas but with more black and leather).  More recent subculture styles include Hime-Decora-kei or "princess-decoration style" and Mori Girl or "forest girl," a boho-meets-Laura Ingalls-type of style.  It's ironic that in all their efforts to stand out and express themselves through clothing, the members of these various style niches lose all sense of individuality by dressing so uniformly.

The final and smallest category in the exhibit is all about Cosplay or Costume Play, which is not so much "fashion" as it is role playing or as the show's program describes "a type of performance art and fan culture."  Associated with the neighborhood Akihabara, Cosplayers take dressing up as manga, anime or video game characters very seriously.  The colorful and detailed costumes on display include a pink Catgirl Maid costume complete with kitty ears and beribboned tail; a turquoise, Sailor Moon-like Tycho Science Costume; the Victorian-era, bustled Madame Red Costume; and the Lady Oscar Costume which resembles a velvety blue and gold version of Captain Crunch's nautical attire.

For those of us who have never had the chance to visit Japan, Japan Fashion Now is a fun and convenient way to experience the diverse styles from one of the most fashion-forward and fashion-obsessed nations in the world, though at times some of the fearless fashions seem to be from another world altogether.  Learn more at fitnyc.edu/museum.  Extended through April 2nd.

*Photography is not allowed in the galleries so I took the below screengrabs of pics and credits from The Museum of FIT's online exhibition site.

Comments

[Account Deleted]

Marvellous outfit specially pink frauk. I will definitely purchase it.

thanks for sharing.

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[dad day suit]

OW!great costume for men's i wounder if i wear that on the 3rd picture costume.what if i look's like? hehe.great costume please add some naruto costume here or bleach heheh..thanks for this post great job for the owner of this blog!.keep it up god blessed thanks again.nice to be here.

[Emery Sprau]

Just one look is needed for anyone to distinguish that these are in fact Japanese fashion. As far as rules go, Japan has pretty much broken the mold when it comes to Haute couture. Every piece of fabric has its own life and its own attitude.